There are many ways in which one can use compost effectively.

One can imagine the benefits that can be accrued from the use of this marvelous soil conditioner, yet one must keep in mind that compost in and of itself is often not very high in the nutrients that plants use and need. So, be aware that depending upon local soil conditions there may still be a need for supplemental feeding.

Compost as a measure of weight is not high in the essential nutrients (N-P-K and Ca). This is why many people doubt it's efficacy as a plant food source and soil conditioner. Yet it is the humus' soil developmental capability that is the most beneficial aspect of it's use. Besides the small amount of nutrients available in compost there are the humic acids which delve through the soil acting upon soil particles in such a way so as to free the nutrients naturally present in the soil.

That being said there is the question of how much compost to use when planning a garden new or developed. I feel that the question of how much is dependant on the questions of how long and how? That is to say how long since the last application of compost, and how has the garden been treated in the past? If the garden has been treated organically for years then the soil microbial life will be abundant, the levels of humus in the soil from previous applications of compost will be high with a large reserve of humus being degraded into materials that will be available to the soil and the plants that year. On the other hand if the soil has not been organically maintained, and has a low level of humus and organic material in it, then the levels of compost must be greatly increased for several years. This is because compost and the humic levels in the soil have a very long 'half-life". And the materials spread the first year will for the most part not prove to be assimilated by the plants in that first year. This is because the soil microbial life will be so depleted that the organisms which work to decay and release the nutrients and elements cannot adequately perform their work and cause the proper decay in a timely manner. Also, even when the organisms are present in the soil they are greatly influenced by factors such as temperature, PH, soil texture, and moisture.

On the other hand, if opening a new garden into soil which has not had applications of soil killing chemicals one will notice a very quick assimilation of the compost into the soil. When one has applied compost one may be surprised at how quickly the compost in the soil seems to have been digested into the soil leaving little trace of itself in a fashion comparable to it's raw state. It may be noticed that the soil is darker, indicating a larger carbon content. And the workability of the soil may be increased showing that the humus has worked it's way into the soil structure, opening the clay soil, or binding the sandy soil.

There is a cumulative benefit to using compost from season to season and year to year. After several years there begins to be a net gain in the levels of humus as well as beneficial organisms including worms and insects. It is at this time that the additions of new compost may be reduced to a certain extent. The high levels in the soil will at that time be easily maintained by additions of compost or other bulk organic matter at regular intervals.

In the summer, especially if working sandy or porous soils one will experience a more rapid 'digestion' of the compost and a related 'turn-in' to the soil of the humus and other elements contained therein. In clayish soils with the reduced airflow, and tendency to remain moist, acidic and cool, there is a marked tendency for the compost to stay in a compost-like state longer before finally being broken down into the base humus material. These tendencies are what one must look into when determining how to use compost effectively. For this reason it has been said that people gardening in hot weather, high rainfall areas of sandy soil have a very hard time indeed keeping enough humus level in the soil to maintain the high levels they desire.

At any rate there is no need to turn a simple addition of organic matter to the soil into a large-scale discussion about humus percentages and cation exchange capabilities. Let me state emphatically that the principles of organic agriculture are based upon a simple premise, that of "feed the soil, not the plants". This means that the additions you are putting down are for the generation of large amounts of microbial life that will in turn help the plant roots to absorb the natural elements available in the soil and convert them into a form that is more easily taken up by the roots. The humus that the compost will decay into will serve as a buffer against PH, temperature, moisture and airflow changes. Thus it can be surmised that to a certain degree more is better. And it can also be stated that when one is starting a new garden the soil will very quickly take up much of the compost and assimilate it into the bulk of the soil in a way that will make it appear to have been lost. Yet after several seasons of re-applications new compost will tend to be less quickly assimilated due to the fact that the buffer of half digested compost and high levels of humus from previous applications will be hosting large populations of organisms that are slow to move onto the new material. This means that after several years one may reduce the size of seasonal applications. And if one were unable to obtain compost for a season or two the soil will have enough of a buffer that the omission of this material for a short time will not be noticed by the soil or the plants in any recognizable way.

This is why I like compost as a soil conditioner, it is easy on the head. Put a lot on each year, and then after several years you will have gardened so long, and learned so much that you will 'know' how the soil is doing. You will be able to reach into the garden and pull some soil up and know that the humus level is high or low. Old timers can look at soil, and tell if it is 'sour' (acid) or 'sweet' (alkaline).There is little danger in adding too much compost. Since making compost is in itself a somewhat time and effort consuming process, by this means alone one can generally be prevented from adding too much. . A six inch layer of compost, well turned into the soil will do no harm to any soil, so one can easily add plenty and improve the soil more quickly.

HOW TO ADD THE COMPOST TO THE SOIL

There are many ways to use compost, the one I prefer is to let the compost finish totally, then I add the compost to the area to be worked. I then work it into the soil to a depth from six inches to near a foot. Using compost which has fully matured will reduce any problems from weed seeds, pathogens and nitrogen 'stealing' from the coming crops roots by the decomposing material.

You can also use compost as a mulch. In this case it is spread on the soil surface under the plants. You can use half finished compost for this, and it will slowly work it's way toward being finished while shading the soil and providing nutrients to the plants.

I recommend against using any half finished compost tilled directly into the soil. There is a problem which will arise from such action, namely "nitrogen-draft". This is the phenomena whereby the micro-organisms which cause the decomposition may 'steal' some nitrogen from the surrounding soil in order to have sufficient food energy to generate the decomposition process. This will amount in a temporary deficit of nitrogen to the detriment of the plants which will be put into the soil. It can be argued that the nitrogen taken up by the organisms will be released upon the 'finishing' of the compost, when the organisms die, but still the temporary problem can be big to the plants when growing and they need the good nutrients. Raw manure and half finished compost also have a reputation for 'burning' plant roots. This is as a result of the heat generated during the decomposition process. This killing also extends to many of the soil organisms that cannot endure the thermophilic (high heat) conditions. For these reasons I do not agree with the notion of using raw manures or half finished compost directly on nor in the soil.

For new vegetable gardens add four to six inches before each new planting.
For established gardens two to four inches before every planting is adequate.
For new trees and shrubs add a five gallon bucket for each gallon or two of can size
For pots, add 1/4 by volume sifted compost with a good potting mix.

When compost is used as a mulch it has all of the good attributes normally ascribed to other mulches. It also has a higher nutrient content than most mulch material. There are many who proclaim that half finished compost is good for mulch. I feel that this is not as harmful as placing half finished composts in the soil. Yet one must still be aware that the pathogens we desire to kill with the high heat generated in a well cooking pile may still be very virulent in incompletely digested compost. Weed seeds are another cause of concern. For this reason I recommend your compost be mainly finished before using in any capacity.

For trees and shrubs a one inch layer applied six inches from the trunk out to a bit past the drip line of the tree For garden vegetables, a one to two inch layer is helpful.

When I use compost as a mulch I do like to cover it with mulch from another source. This gives me the feeling that I am covering the compost and protecting it from the elements while still utilizing it's beneficial properties.

OK folks, this is not the sort of tea you want to serve to your Grandmother, and I'll leave it to you if you should serve it to your mother-in-law.

Compost tea is one of those things that most people never really get around to, I know I don't. While I have used it a few times in years gone by, I now prefer to let the soil have a large amount of nutrients and maintain it in such a way that the plants will be fine.

To make compost tea you get a burlap bag and fill it most of the way with compost. Set it in a plastic trash can and fill with water. Let it sit for a few days stirring it with a stick every day.

When the tea has a light brown color it is ready to use. Simply dip it out of the can, and let it soak into the ground around the plants. If it is really dark then it is safer to dilute it down a bit with fresh water.

The Master Composter will help you with planning of your compost pile, describe how to build one, and use the finished product. A directory of places to get compost and compost building materials finishes off the pages.

A company called Genesis has a fairly simple explanation of compost and it's effects on the soil. It is a good read, interesting and down to earth.

This University of North Dakota page will explain how the Great Plains once had an abundance of organic material, but now have been experiencing problems due to the depletion of humus in the soil. This site explains some of the processes going on in a compost pile.

Here a solid waste municipal recycling company explains the benefits of compost, this is a very succinct compiling of the benefits of compost, go to http://fentonnet.com/microlife/Benefit.htm to get the good information.